“I haven’t failed. I have just found 10,000 ways that won’t work”
Thomas Edison
Day 5 – 7
- Day 5 – Puketi Forest HQ to Kerikeri ; 28km
- Day 6 – Kerikeri to Paihia ; 23km
- Day 7 – Paihia to Whangaruru ; 28km
Total hiked: 180 km
A thru hike is not easy to plan, especially in these unprecedented times… haha I sound very official don’t I, but seriously I would be lying if I thought my ‘ideal’ SOBO Te Araroa was to go exactly as planned this season. I just didn’t think I’d be scheduling a restart on day five.
Unfortunately as I hobbled my way off Ninety Mile Beach and into a shower, little did I know that in an hour I’d be clean but in a great escape from Northern Northland back to my home base in Whangarei and organising a restart. Thanks again Reuben for your car getaway expertise!
The pandemic early on was testing my flexibility, confidence and resilience in completing this thru-hike. Too easy would it have been with my bruised, swollen feet and sunburnt face to rest for days, turned weeks on end and await an ‘ideal’ time to restart the trail. But I don’t think there will ever be that time for this seasons TA hikers, instead flip flopping will be our norm.
So as it happened, I returned to trail two days later at the new lockdown border of Puketi Forest HQ and began the next part of my hike. Knowing that when the time was right (and the rest of Northland got out of lockdown) I’d return to the infamous Northland Forests and complete my journey.
My return to trail was a stark contrast to my departure, gone was the sand, winds and never ending beach, but a lass I was walking on gravel/dirt roads with livestock. What initially was quite and exciting to see all the cute cows and their friendly moos, quickly became frightening with their beady stares, herd like mentality and relentless noise. They never shut up! I’d walk past one farm to have every and I mean every cow approach the fence, follow me for the duration of their paddock, moo at the top of their lungs, some even rise onto their hind legs, all to reach the end and just glare at me. Only to have this ALL repeated at the very next paddock.
I finally thought I’d reached salvation from the ‘curious cows’ when I saw the sign for Kerikeri as I was approaching state highway 10, only to accidentally slip on the road barrier and face plant into the asphalt. Fortunately I came away with only a grazed face, hands and bloody knee but learnt a very good lesson… state highways aren’t my friend.
The remainder of the walk into Kerikeri was great. Along the trail there are parts that I’ve previously completed and am looking forward to revisiting, Rainbow Falls to the Stonehouse was one of them. And to make it even better, Nate was able to join me for what turned into another rainy hike for the two of us.
The following day I set off from the Stonehouse in Kerikeri and into Waitangi Forest, but not without a quick ‘how to safely walk on busy roads’ lesson from Nate. Very much appreciated after yesterday’s carfuffle. The forest provided some great views across the Bay of Islands and ample shade, which I would come the cherish in the days that followed. It also smelt piney which I mentioned aloud to myself far too many times. Towards the end of the forest I met back up with Nate and we climbed Mt Bledisloe together, it’s not on the trail but it is a pretty stunning view from the top! Slowly I made my way down the hill to trot through Waitangi and onto Paihia where we camped overnight.
In the morning we parted ways once again and I set off this time on a ferry from Paihia to Russell, my favourite place in New Zealand (so far). Russell provides a lot of nostalgia for my family and I, from sailing trips, summer holidays and generations spent in this idealic seaside town I was very pleased to be back, for what was to be a very long and hot road walking day.
Due to Kauri dieback, the beautiful Russell Forest has been closed and instead the trail takes you around a road route. What started as an meandering boardwalk through mangroves, quickly turned into a bustling road with no shade and scorching sun. My mantra of ‘trot trot trot’ which I chanted to keep myself motivated, changed to ‘hot hot hot’ rather accurately and later unintelligent moans as I felt the heat reflecting off the road and sizzling even up my nostrils.
When I made it to the turn off of Russell-Whakepara Road, through Ngaiotona Reserve and began to see all the magnificent Kauri trees I was reminded of an important life lesson and something I am really trying to work on during this trail. Its about the journey, not the destination. It’s important in everyday life to appreciate the small things, whether they help you achieve your goals or simply make you feel good, they’re all important and worth remembering. Because if you get to the end of walking the length of country and can’t remember the stunning scenery, people’s acts of kindness or the beautiful Kauri trees that provided you shade when you were sweltering then what have you really taken away from this experience. Just something to think about…
Eventually I made it to Whangaruru and stayed at The Farm. The warm greeting, tour of their extensive property and friendly faces made me feel really welcome, especially Anna who took me on the tour and the two little sisters Mia and Jules who helped me pitch my tent. I highly recommend people stay here if they’re passing through.
I also saw a sign for Whāngārei today which was pretty cool.
Until next time, happy trotting!
GC Chronicles 
Great reading and the photo’s as usual – Wonderful
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