“Isn’t it nice… once you’ve outgrown the ideas of what life should be and you just enjoy what it is.”
Taylor Jenkins Reid – After I Do
Day 15 – 20
- Day 15 – Marsden Point to Waipū Cove ; 29 km
- Day 16 – Waipū Cove to Mangawhai ; 32 km
- Day 17 – Mangawhai to Pakiri Beach ; 17 km
- Day 18 – Pakiri Beach to Dome Valley ; 26 km
- Day 19 – Dome Valley to Puhoi ; 27 km
- Day 20 – Puhoi to Stillwater ; 33 km
Total hiked: 562 km
If you were to pack everything that the Northland section of trail has to offer into just 6 days it would be these days of trotting. Beach, elevation, mud, more elevation, river crossings, road, elevation again, rope climbing and steep descends. All en route to Auckland.
Leaving Whangārei I was kindly (thanks Nate) and very early dropped off at Marsden Point. I began the day every TA hiker should by walking on a beach 🙂 Marsden Point and Ruakākā beaches to be exact. After a stint back on the road and a dodgy but perfectly timed car vs Alex bridge crossing into Waipū, I enjoyed an ice cream and trotted the last 8 kilometres to Waipū Cove campsite for my first night back on trail. It felt like I had never left.
The next morning I started bright-eyed and bushy-tailed for a predicted long day ahead, firstly backtracking some of the previous days trot to return to the trail. It was only 2 kilometres but by days end when you’ve been walking along dusty roads, sweaty, sore and dehydrated you wish for the 2 kilometres back.
Brynderwyn Walkway provides amazing views across Bream Bay and Mangawhai. After a long walk up an exposed forestry road I was very appreciative of any tree cover on offer and the view was an added plus.
The trail leading to Mangawhai Cliffs passes through private land… farm land to be specific. By now I feel like a seasoned pro at traversing cow paddocks, until I have to cross another one, freak out, take my hiking poles out for safety and run along the fence line; but yeah seasoned pro haha.
Finally making it to Mangawhai Cliffs Walkway that day felt like a great achievement. So obviously I took a subtle picture 🙂
The day ended on an even bigger achievement – I crossed the boundary between Northland and Auckland. Well Kaipara and Rodney to be specific. Still. Only 2556 kilometres south to go.
Entering the Auckland section of the trail brought with it crowds, humidity, other trail hikers, but most excitingly family. My parents joined me each for a day on trail.
Mum walked with me first and wow did she have a baptism by fire on trail from Te Arai to Pakiri Beach. The day was hot. Tide times meant we had to wade through dunes for half the beach. Sun reflecting off the sand all day. But amongst the sweat and sunburn it was great to be able to share this with her.
The trot to Dome Valley involved hiking through Omaha and Dome Forest which felt like a flashback to Raetea. Mud, multiple summits and fallen trees to scale over, with added rock and rope climbing made this the physically hardest day on trail so far for me! What a great for Dad to join 🙂 I did get to see where all my Auckland and Northland weather updates come from though!
We celebrated the end of a long day with a popsicle and well timed high five. 🙂
That night I stayed with Algies Bays finest, Nate’s Granny. She fed, showered and housed me; even dropping me back off at Dome Valley the following morning with a belly full of porridge. Mucho appreciated!
While Cyclone Ruby was yet to cause a downpour (that was to come) the pre-storm humidity and temperature rise was definitely felt during my subsequent days.
The next day on trail bought a first for me – I met other thru hikers. John and Elysia started their hike within Auckland borders and were on day 3 on trail. It was great to have new people to talk to, share stories, compare feet pain and sweat amongst. You can only talk to yourself for so long before even I start to question my sanity. Sadly we parted ways on entering Puhoi, but hopefully I will meet up with them and other hikers in the future. On arriving to Puhoi, in a state of extremely uncomfortable sweatiness (seriously this humidity was something ridiculous) I was greeted by Nate’s parents and a cold beer, thanks!!!
It’s funny how quickly something can become normal. Trotting from Puhoi to Stillwater I was back to just my company. Listening to audiobooks, singing to Tay Tay, dancing to music and talking to myself obviously. I really felt like I was in Auckland. Passing through Orewa and Silverdale with all the people around town, the cars, the traffic, the noise, I started to miss the secluded roads of Northland with just me and the occasional sheep. Arriving in Stillwater that afternoon after a final 8 kilometre busy road walk was a welcome relief.
Now to trot through New Zealand’s biggest city, I doubt there will be much road 😛
GC Chronicles 
Alex! I’ve been meaning to say hey! Was awesome to meet you and such a boost to have someone else to walk with that day. Looks like you’re acing the trail. Well done ❤ Happy new year and hopefully see you again further down the track!
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Hi 🙂 great to hear from you. Happy New Year!!! Yes it was a real treat to have people to walk with for the day. I’m back solo again but hoping to meet more people as I go. How are you guys going?
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