Tongariro Alpine Crossing

“Difficult roads often lead to beautiful destinations”

Zig Ziglar

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The central plateau was something else.

I can’t really describe it better than during my time here something just clicked… well I’m writing a blog so let’s see if I can describe it better haha

As a kid I remember riding the train with my mum to National Park and Whakapapa, we were going for a weekend train trip more than anything else. The weather was awful. We stayed one night in the Chateau, we didn’t ski, we didn’t hike anywhere, we did nothing. I remember thinking outside was miserable and we went home the following day on the train, at least we enjoyed the train ride.

Flash forward 20 years and I am trotting into Tongariro in awe. Having never been back to the central plateau I didn’t know the mountains were so prominent, precipitous… perfect! And this wonder didn’t cease the entire time I was their.

Starting the trot up the Ketetahi Track (backwards for those familiar with the hike) was tough. Compared to the other route, 350 metres of extra vertical elevation made it self known as I panted and sweated profusely through the podocarp-hardwood forest until breaking free of the shrub at the old Ketetahi Shelter. But the views when I got to the clearing made it all worth while!

As the track meandered its way through tussock slopes, past Ketetahi Springs, over bridges and rock hopping spots I couldn’t help but keep looking up at the shear size of the mighty maunga. Around the North Crater to the Blue Lake/Te Wai Whakaata o te Rangihiroa I was met with crystal clear blue water and a strong headwind. But after seeing the glimmering Emerald Lakes/Ngarotopounamu ahead no wind chill could hold back my amazement!

Up until this point of the trot I had been entirely alone. Without a single other hiker on the track I felt like it was just me enjoying the splendour that is Tongariro. It was at this moment that I felt serene. Not just with my days walk, but with my decision to leave work and do Te Araroa in the first place, with trotting all these kilometres alone, with my mindset and mainly with myself 🙂

I have come to realise the beauty in the simplicity of what I do everyday. I wake up, trot some kilometres and when I’m too tired I put up my tent and do it all over again the next day. Anything else that happens is a bonus. A place to get coffee, great, a flock of sheep, cute, a bridge to cross, yay, a lovely stranger who shows kindness, I couldn’t be happier! So easily we take all these moments in life for granted, we stress about everything going on that we forget to stop and appreciate what’s right in front of us. Today staring up in awe at Tongariro I appreciated what was right in front of me.

On rounding the lakes I noticed the first day hikers with their fresh smell and small packs, all slip sliding down the scree slope. When they met me there questions of what I was doing and worries of if was going to attempt to walk up the steep gravel slope to the summit were quickly answered when I succeeded (rather easily I might admit) to trot my way to the top of Red Crater, at 1886 metres it’s the highest point on the Tongariro Alpine Crossing.

I continued on down the ridge to the South Crater, through the Mangatepopo Saddle between Mt Ngāuruhoe and Tongariro, down the Devil’s Staircase and to the top of the Mangatepopo Valley. Turning back every 5-10 minutes as I walked the Mangatepopo Track, I stared up in amazement at not just what I had physically achieved today, yesterday and everyday since I started walking Te Araroa but also at how I felt!

Whilst being in Tongariro National Park and very recently becoming a Lord of the Rings fan (I’m talking November 2021 I saw the trilogy for the first time, thanks Nate and Josh for watching it with me; film fwends) I thought what better way to get to National Park then via Tawhai Falls or otherwise known as Gollums Pool. Similar to Gollum, I visited these alone like I have been for most my hike but it was still precious 😉

Making my way into National Park I still couldn’t shake the awe of where I was, continually gazing up and being amazed at Tongariro, Ngāuruhoe and Ruapehu.