“We were a fresh page on the desk. Filling in the blanks as we go.
As if the street lights pointed in an arrowhead. Leading us home.
And I hope I never lose you. Hope it never ends”
Taylor Swift – Cornelia Street
Day 77 to 81
- Day 77 – Boyle Village to Hope Kiwi Hut ; 25 km
- Day 78 – Hope Kiwi Hut to Hurunui No. 3 Hut ; 27 km
- Day 79 – Hurunui No. 3 Hut to Kiwi Hut ; 23 km
- Day 80 – Kiwi Hut to Aickens ; 14 km
- Day 81 – Aickens to Bealey ; 29 km
Total hiked: 2198 km
We trotted through a lot of passes this section. To be more specific Harpers Pass, Goat Pass and Arthurs Pass.
Whilst the passes involved many different mountains, rivers, valleys, bogginess and hoards of sandflies there was one common theme throughout. A sense of contentment. I could say I felt at equilibrium but that word sounds too scientific for a trot and makes me think of pipettes, beakers and centrifuging. You know all the classic things they put in blockbuster movies to make you think – science! So instead I will describe a feeling… very unscientific. 😉
Close your eyes and… no no that’s silly you’re reading my blog, instead I would like you to imagine.
You are standing in grassy meadow. There is an early morning dew on the ground forcing the lower half of your legs and feet to be damp. Walking in and out of bog all morning your feet have adopted a wrinkly chill about them that you can’t seem to escape. But as you trot through the fields you spot movement up ahead.
In the distance is a herd of deer, maybe five or six all with their heads down eating grass or drinking from the lake. As you trot closer they notice you and scatter into the surrounding forest.
Around you in every direction are trees extending high up and over the mountainous slopes. Carrying on through the forest you hear the constant hum of wasps above, trickles of nearby streams and waterfalls, occasional scrambles of rocks against the riverbed and flutters of fantail wings in the trees. The sun begins to gleam through the tree canopy and you hope at some point this morning you might feel your toes again. 😛 You are in Hope Valley and later that day will climb Harpers Pass.
Next pretend you are bundled up in your thermal top, beanie, mittens and socks with your usual trotting attire overtop. The comforting snuggness is all you have as you rock hop, scale boulders and cling to the sides of cliff faces on your pursuit to the summit.
The forceful rivers make you sway sideways but you thankfully never loose your footing as you stagger or rock hop across. The freezing cold water makes you grateful that it’s only knee-thigh high and you haven’t fallen in. Without a pack on you back you feel weightless. Despite your fear of heights, river crossings or slipping this light, nimble feeling almost gives you a super power and you effortlessly leap from boulder to boulder, growing stronger and more sure of your footing with each jump.
Your confidence improves as the summit gets ever little bit closer which only increases your speed until you round the top and euphoria overwhelms you. You did it. You made it to the top of Goat Pass!
Lastly I want you imagine a bluebird day. As the sunshine beams through the pine trees, not a cloud in the sky, nor wind about the air is calm and cosy. With an icecream in one hand and a coffee on the table you are the perfect balance of sweet, bitter, hot and cold. The biggest decision is what to have first. Knowing you have the afternoon to catch up on trail planning, washing, shoe repairs and a food resupply you decide to take this moment to enjoy what’s right in front of you and close your eyes. Soak in the sunshine. Relax your muscles. Clear your mind. Just be. Well until you hear the squawk of a nearby bird and open one eyelid to spy a kea eyeing up your fingers icecream cone… maybe best to relax inside. Arthur’s Pass, where icecream dreams and kea avoidance relationships are made. 😉
Over the past five days N.D and I trotted from Boyle Village to Bealey, crossed over Harpers and Goat Pass and stayed one night in Arthurs Pass in between. While the valleys provided amazing wildlife spotting opportunities and the passes breathtaking views, it was the feeling of happiness, confidence and peace I had that I truly cherished. I felt content.
I would like to give special mentions to:
- the ridiculously hot natural hot pool in Hope Valley. I know it’s called a hot pool but seriously that would give third degree burns if you soaked in there! Everyone keep the cold piping tube in at all times.
- sandflies. The number of sandflies was crazy enough, let alone how blood thirsty and savage they behaved.
- deception-minga trail. For those more familiar with the Coast to Coast this is that trail. While yes it is technical it’s nothing TA walkers haven’t done before and I think it gets a lot hate and avoidance for a really fun trail with awesome views 🙂
- Bill, at The Sanctuary in Arthurs Pass. I couldn’t not mention the ultimate, kindest, sweetest, most genuine man, the legend, the true essence of a trail angel; Bill. He owns the backpackers ‘The Sanctuary’ and went above and beyond when we stayed their. He took N.D and myself to and from the trailhead both days, gave us a lovely tour of the accommodation, recommended places to eat in Arthurs Pass, helped repair our trail shoes, met us after we slack-packed Goat Pass with our packs and dropped us off at Bealey. Seriously the loveliest of humans and a real G.C – great chap!
Happy trotting everyone. And if you’re ever passing through Arthurs Pass stay with Bill! 🙂
GC Chronicles 
Wonderful views and a great read, the Passes sound scary but amazing, shame you couldn’t share ice cream with the Kea, Bill from Arthurs Pass really did put himself out – very nice to hear
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